What To Put Under Shingles

by | Aug 30, 2025 | Blog, Choosing a roof, Cleveland


What To Put Under Shingles: Complete Guide to Roofing Layers

When installing or replacing a roof, one of the most common questions homeowners ask is what to put under shingles. While shingles are the outermost layer that provides style and weather resistance, they’re not the only component that keeps your home safe. Beneath shingles, several layers work together to create a durable, watertight barrier that protects against rain, wind, snow, and heat. Understanding what goes under shingles is just as important as choosing the shingles themselves, because these layers determine how well your roof performs and how long it lasts.

This guide explores all the different materials and layers placed under shingles, why they’re necessary, and how they affect your roof’s durability, performance, and lifespan.


Why What Goes Under Shingles Matters

The roof system is not just shingles nailed to wood—it’s a carefully designed structure. Each layer beneath shingles plays a role in keeping the home protected. Without the right foundation, shingles may fail prematurely, leading to leaks, drafts, and costly repairs.

Some of the key reasons the underlayment and supporting materials matter include:

  • Moisture Protection – Keeps rainwater and melted snow from seeping into the roof deck.
  • Insulation and Energy Efficiency – Helps regulate attic and indoor temperatures.
  • Longevity of the Roof – Extends the life of the shingles by providing a smooth, even base.
  • Defense Against Ice Dams – Prevents water from backing up beneath shingles in colder climates.
  • Fire and Wind Resistance – Some materials add safety and weather durability.

The Layers Under Shingles

When asking what to put under shingles, you’re really asking about the different layers that make up the roofing system. These layers include:

  1. Roof Decking (Sheathing)
  2. Roof Underlayment (Felt or Synthetic)
  3. Ice and Water Shield
  4. Roofing Membranes for Special Areas
  5. Ventilation and Insulation Support

Let’s explore each in detail.


Roof Decking (Sheathing)

The roof deck is the base layer under all roofing materials. It’s usually made of:

  • Plywood – Strong, durable, widely used.
  • Oriented Strand Board (OSB) – A cost-effective, engineered wood alternative.
  • Plank Decking – Found in older homes.

Why It Matters:

The roof deck provides the structural surface where underlayment and shingles are attached. A weak or damaged deck can cause shingles to buckle or blow off, and leaks to form. Before new shingles are installed, roofers always check the decking for rot, water damage, or soft spots.


Roof Underlayment

The underlayment is the first protective barrier directly beneath shingles. It adds waterproofing and prevents shingles from sticking directly to the deck. There are several types:

1. Asphalt-Saturated Felt (Tar Paper)

  • Traditional underlayment, available in 15-pound and 30-pound thicknesses.
  • Provides moderate water resistance.
  • Inexpensive but less durable than modern materials.

2. Synthetic Underlayment

  • Made from engineered polymers.
  • Lighter, stronger, and more resistant to tearing than felt.
  • Offers better water protection and UV resistance.
  • Now the most commonly used option in new roofing.

3. Rubberized Asphalt Underlayment

  • Self-adhering and waterproof.
  • Highly flexible, sealing around nails and fasteners.
  • Often used in areas prone to heavy rain or snow.

Ice and Water Shield

For colder climates, an ice and water shield is often applied under shingles along eaves, valleys, and roof edges.

  • Provides a waterproof membrane that prevents leaks from ice dams.
  • Self-sealing around nails to block water intrusion.
  • Adds a critical layer of protection in snow-prone areas.

Even in warmer climates, this barrier is valuable in valleys where water collects.


Drip Edge

While not always thought of as “under shingles,” the drip edge is a thin strip of metal installed at roof edges, under the first row of shingles.

  • Guides water away from fascia and into gutters.
  • Prevents water infiltration at the roof edge.
  • Protects against rot and wood damage.

Roofing Membranes for Special Areas

In addition to general underlayment, extra protection is used in vulnerable areas such as:

  • Valleys – Where two roof slopes meet, directing water flow.
  • Around Chimneys – Waterproof membranes or flashing are installed.
  • Skylights and Vents – Require sealing to prevent leaks.

Ventilation and Insulation Layers

Technically not “under shingles” but essential to roof performance:

  • Ventilation Systems (ridge vents, soffit vents, gable vents) keep airflow steady, preventing heat and moisture buildup.
  • Insulation in the attic supports energy efficiency and protects shingles from damage due to heat from below.

Step-by-Step Look: What Goes Under Shingles During Installation

  1. Inspect Decking – Replace damaged boards.
  2. Install Drip Edge (Lower Eaves) – Helps direct water.
  3. Apply Ice and Water Shield – Especially in cold climates.
  4. Lay Underlayment Across Roof – Roll out synthetic or felt underlayment.
  5. Add Drip Edge (Rakes) – Protects roof edges.
  6. Install Flashing – Around chimneys, vents, valleys.
  7. Place Shingles – Secure outer layer.

Each step ensures the roof is watertight, stable, and able to handle decades of weather.


Common Mistakes with Under-Shingle Layers

  1. Skipping Underlayment – Leads to leaks and shorter roof life.
  2. Poor Deck Preparation – Shingles installed on rotten boards eventually fail.
  3. Improper Overlaps – Underlayment seams must overlap correctly to prevent water intrusion.
  4. Ignoring Climate Needs – Not using ice and water shield in snowy regions causes serious problems.
  5. Incorrect Fastening – Nails through underlayment must be sealed properly.

How Climate Affects What to Put Under Shingles

  • Cold, Snowy Climates – Ice and water shield is essential.
  • Hot, Sunny Climates – Synthetic underlayment resists heat and UV better than felt.
  • Rainy Regions – Waterproof membranes and proper flashing are critical.
  • Wind-Prone Areas – Extra-fastened underlayment prevents uplift.

Cost of Materials Under Shingles

Costs vary depending on material choice and roof size. On average:

  • Felt Underlayment – $0.15–$0.30 per sq. ft.
  • Synthetic Underlayment – $0.30–$0.75 per sq. ft.
  • Ice and Water Shield – $0.75–$1.50 per sq. ft.
  • Drip Edge – $1–$2 per linear ft.

Although these costs may seem small compared to shingles, they greatly influence long-term durability and performance.


Longevity of Different Materials Under Shingles

  • Felt – 15–20 years, but often replaced earlier.
  • Synthetic Underlayment – 25–50 years depending on quality.
  • Ice and Water Shield – Matches the lifespan of shingles (20–40 years).

Investing in higher-quality materials under shingles can add decades to the roof’s lifespan.


Comparing Shingle Layers by Roof Type

  • Asphalt Shingles – Usually paired with synthetic or felt underlayment.
  • Metal Roofs Over Shingles – Often need a synthetic barrier to prevent moisture.
  • Tile Roofs – Require strong underlayment due to long lifespan of tiles.
  • Slate Roofs – Must use durable waterproof membranes.

How Underlayment Affects Energy Efficiency

Though often overlooked, underlayment plays a role in home efficiency. Synthetic options often include reflective properties, while proper ventilation combined with underlayment prevents attic heat buildup that shortens shingle life.


The Future of Under-Shingle Materials

Roofing technology continues to evolve, with improvements in:

  • Breathable Underlayments – Allow moisture to escape while blocking water.
  • Eco-Friendly Materials – Recycled synthetic fibers and biodegradable components.
  • Integrated Smart Layers – Underlayment that can signal when water infiltration occurs.

Conclusion

When considering what to put under shingles, remember that the visible roof covering is only part of the system. Roof decking, underlayment, ice and water shield, drip edge, and ventilation all work together to create a strong, leak-resistant, and long-lasting structure. While shingles protect from above, it’s the hidden layers beneath that ensure your roof withstands decades of weather.

By choosing the right materials for your climate, home style, and budget, you not only extend the life of your roof but also increase energy efficiency and reduce future repair costs. Investing in quality layers under shingles ensures your home stays safe, dry, and comfortable for years to come.

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How do ice dams cause hidden roof damage?

Ice dams cause hidden roof damage by trapping water behind ice along the roof edge. This water can soak into decking, insulation, and attic space during winter, but the damage often becomes visible after the thaw when moisture begins to dry out.

Why do ice dam leaks show up in spring instead of winter?

Ice dam leaks show up in spring because moisture often stays frozen during winter. Once temperatures rise, trapped water moves through the roof system and can cause stains, mold, or damp insulation.

How do I know if my roof has ice dam damage after winter?

You may have ice dam damage if you see ceiling stains, musty smells, curling shingles, or damp insulation after snow melts. Many Cleveland homeowners only notice problems once the attic warms up.

Can attic ventilation prevent ice dam damage?

Attic ventilation can help prevent ice dam damage by keeping the roof temperature even. Poor ventilation allows heat to melt snow unevenly, which increases the chance of ice forming along the edge.

Does ice dam damage mean I need a new roof?

Ice dam damage does not always mean full replacement is needed. Some roofs only need repairs, but severe moisture damage may require decking or ventilation work.

Is ice dam damage common in Cleveland, OH?

Ice dam damage is common in Cleveland because winter temperatures often freeze and thaw. This pattern allows ice to form repeatedly and increases the chance of hidden roof damage.

Should I inspect my roof after winter?

You should inspect your roof after winter because ice dam damage may not be visible from the ground. A spring inspection can find hidden moisture and ventilation problems.

Can ice dams cause mold in the attic?

Ice dams can cause mold because trapped moisture stays in insulation and wood. When the attic warms up after winter, mold can begin to grow.

Check for Ice Dam Roof Damage Before Small Problems Get Worse

Ice dam roof damage is one of the most common causes of hidden roof problems in Cleveland, OH, and many homeowners do not notice the damage until after winter. Snow, ice, and repeated freeze-thaw cycles allow moisture to build up slowly under shingles and inside the attic. Once the snow melts and the roof warms up, the damage becomes easier to see.

Because hidden roof damage after winter can lead to leaks, mold, and structural problems, a spring inspection is one of the best ways to make sure your roof is still in good condition.

S&K Construction And Remodeling inspects roofs across Northeast Ohio every spring to check for ice dam damage, ventilation problems, and moisture that started during winter but was not visible at the time.

If you think your roof may have been affected by ice dams this winter, schedule your free inspection today.

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